Bordeaux Made Easier……well, maybe
Many wine drinkers I am friends with or know in the area tend to avoid the wines of Bordeaux. I mean, sure, maybe they truly prefer the wines of California but part of me believes that people tend to avoid the wines or Bordeaux because they do not know what they are buying and drinking. Bordeaux and much of France when it comes to wine can be quite intimidating. This is mostly because of how their wines are labelled. A person must have a little knowledge about France and their wine laws to understand what varietal (grape) is or is not in the bottle.
When someone grabs a bottle of wine from California, it explicitly says on then bottle what grape variety it is. It states “Merlot” or “Cabernet Sauvignon” in big bold letters somewhere on the label. Usually on the front of the bottle leaving no deciphering before purchase.
In France, however, it merely says Bordeaux – or possible worse, it just says a Chateau name and possibly the commune the chateau is located. Such as
Chateau Lafite-Rothschild
Pauillac
From that name you are expected to know that the bottle most likely contains 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.
Why are French wine laws structured this way?
Well, honestly, wine laws are structured this way because of years/decades and centuries of experience with the land, soil, climate, and surrounding territories. The French wine laws are structured to maximize quality. Experience has taught the French which grapes prefer which soil and which growing conditions.
Riesling thrives in the region of Alsace. This is not just because law says so but rather the law says so because of their experience. The Voges Mountains, which are located to the west of Alsace, create a rain shadow making the region of Alsace experience very little rain. The region of Alsace is also so far north of the equator that grapes can barely survive. The Voges Mountains, the latitude from the equator and the soil creates the most perfect Riesling growing environment. Therefore, wine laws reflect Riesling’s potential in the region.
In Bordeaux. The soil on the left bank of the estuary is predominantly gravel and sand which create heat making it a “warm” soil. Because of this, Cabernet Sauvignon thrives, and wine laws follow suit. The right bank, conversely, is predominantly clay and limestone which are “cold” soils and help Cabernet Franc and Merlot thrive. So, it is understood that wineries why wines made on the right bank would be most dominant in Cabernet Franc and Merlot whereas wines located on the estuary’s left bank would be dominant in Cabernet Sauvignon.
Now that all being said, any winery can essentially use whatever grape they want.
Wait? But I just said that it was against the law!
Yes, but it is not against the law in a sense that;
“Oh, you are a winery in Bordeaux and are growing Riesling, off to prison you go.”
Instead, it is more along the lines;
“Oh, you are growing Riesling? Well, we will call this wine Vin de France and the winery is not permitted, by law, to say it was made in Bordeaux or worse, Pauillac. No big deal right?
Well, it is a huge deal if the name Pauillac fetches hundreds of dollars a bottle and Vin de France fetches $6-$8 a bottle. Which is exactly why if you have a winery in Pauillac it would behoove you to follow French wine law and make outstanding wine. The name utilization alone is worth its weight in gold – almost literally.
Pauillac is a small region within a larger region known as Medoc. Medoc is located on the left bank of the Gironde Estuary. We know, because of French wine laws that any bottle with Pauillac on the label or Medoc for that matter will be a wine made predominantly from Cabernet Sauvignon.
Regions within regions???? How confusing
Is it really?
If you are from Mount Lebanon, PA and meet someone from California, do you say you are from Mount Lebanon or do you say Pittsburgh? Or if you are from Boardman, Ohio do you say Boardman or do you say Youngstown?
This is essentially no different. Townships within cities within counties within states within countries.
A side-by-side comparison
Vanny’s Vineyards Chateau Lafite-Rothschild
Canfield Township Pauillac
Youngstown City Médoc
Mahoning County Bordeaux
State of Ohio France
United States of America
So, the next question – what if the wine label says Bordeaux, does this mean it is the same quality as Pauillac? No, absolutely not.
The more specific the region, the stricter, more detailed the wine law.
The more specific the region a vineyard chooses to use on their label, the stricter the grape used, the stricter alcohol content must be achieved and the stricter viticultural and winemaking practices utilized. From start of harvest to bottling and labelling, everything must follow the letter of the law.
If a wine label simply states “Bordeaux” on the label, then we know
If it is a red wine then it is made of either Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petiti Verdot of Carmenère. It must be at least 10.5% alcohol and the winery must only harvest 3.6 tons per acre. The grapes can be harvested from anywhere in Bordeaux and sometimes multiple areas in Bordeaux.
If it is a white wine then it must be made from either Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc or Muscadelle. It must be a minimum of 10% alcohol and the winery must harvest only 4 tons per acre.
If a wine label states “Bordeaux Supérieur,” we know it is from the same grapes above, but it is of slightly higher quality. How do we know it is a higher quality? Well, during harvest, the yield must be lower therefore the vigneron will choose the better crop to use during his/her winemaking.
For red wine, they harvest 3.5 tons per acre therefore presuming wineries choose the better grapes. The red wine must also be a minimum of 11% alcohol.
For white wines, they harvest 2.9 tons per acre and must be also a minimum of 11% alcohol.
If a label states “Médoc” or “Saint-Julien” which is also within Médoc like Pauillac, then we know it is for sure a red wine and the overwhelming majority of the bottlings are Cabernet Sauvignon.
If a label states, “Chateau Lafite-Rothschild” (pictured above)
Then we know the bottlings are typically around 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.
Are we lost yet?
To summarize, to use a region-specific name, you must follow that region’s laws. No the grape is not usually listed on the bottle, but the more you appreciate geography, the easier it becomes.
Any winery can use any grape to experiment and play around with the winemaking. Again, there is no threat of imprisonment, but rather it changes what name is on the label. If Chateau Lafite-Rothschild wanted to tear down a field on the vineyard in Pauillac and plant Sèmillon that absolutely could, but when they bottle it and go on to sell it, it would be labelled Vin de France. As I just mentioned, Puaillac is within Médoc and Médoc is only permitted to be a red wine. Therefore, to use either Pauillac or Médoc on the label, the wine must be red. Sémillon is a white varietal and therefore is not permitted to be labelled Pauillac or Médoc.
I urge you to go to your local wine shop and check out the Bordeaux section and spend a few minutes with your phone.
Does it say Bordeaux?
Does it say Bordeaux Supérieur?
Does it mention a town/region/commune?
Does it mention a specific Chateau? If so what town/region/commune does it mention?
Google that commune – is it on the right or left side of the Gironde Estuary?
If it is on the right – the wine is most likely Merlot or Cabernet Franc dominant.
If it is on the left – the wine is most likely Cabernet Sauvignon dominant.
To generalize
Specific Commune (Médoc/Pomerol/St. Emilion) > Bordeaux Supérieur > Bordeaux
Left of Gironde = Cabernet Sauvignon dominant
Right of Gironde = Merlot or Cabernet Franc dominant
